27 May 2014

Getting back in the Groove

People thought we were crazy to sell our things, quit our jobs, and travel the world. Especially when 1 year turned into “maybe 2 or 3”. When you say 2 or 3 years, people think it's an eternity, but I don't know what sort of life you are living; mine seems to always be flying by! Don't get me wrong, I'm enjoying it every single day, and maybe that's why it is going so quickly. But all the time I'm thinking, “thank goodness we didn't just plan to be gone for 3 months because it would already be over!”. Then when we were home for a week during the wedding reception time, I really felt what it was like for it to all be over. It was just that, completely over. Life was busy and occupied with very different things and I wasn't spending my time reflecting on the traveling or what I learned or how life was different. Life was no longer different at all and far too easily, snapped back into a different way of life (one that I purposely left behind).



I wasn't surprised by this though, in fact it's happened to me before. Depending on how long you are gone there can be varying degrees of reverse culture shock. For a friend of mine whole lives in a very small farming community, a year abroad was an incredible journey but left her struggling to connect in meaningful ways when she returned as many others didn't really understand how to relate to her experiences and quantified it simply as “your trip”. I sort of quantified this time “at home” as a blip on our journey. Knowing that the stay wasn't permanent, I just went with it, understanding that I would be back on our journey soon enough. Still, it took about a week to get into our groove again. Luckily, we found the right place to do it: Antigua, Guatemala.




Antigua (the Colonial capital of Guatemala, not the Caribbean island), is a gem, and if you've been to Guate, you've probably been there. If you haven't, maybe you should. We spent 5 or 6 days here, slowing our pace, drinking coffee, and getting back into our groove (for me, this means daily meditation and yoga practice which I was very much missing). A smaller, grid-based city, Antigua is quite easy and enjoyable to navigate on foot and we spent hours walking around and exploring. A magnificent plaza principal draws people of all types throughout the day and is a lovely place to enjoy the fountain, share a coffee, people-watch, read a book, or snap some photos. 






We did notice a somewhat prominent and diverse ex-pat community here which contributes to a wide range of restaurants and bars with influence from all around the world. This gave me the feel of being “at home” again (this time I am meaning San Francisco), and was somewhat enticing. However, we are traveling here with the purpose of understanding Guatemalans and the Guatemalan culture better, so we avoided the ex-pat scene and per usual, found wonderful local gems of our own! And it didn't take us long!

The first night we ate in a place that my description may not do justice. Step in off the street (and up -nearly all the the doors are a step or 2 up off the sidewalk) into a very small tienda (snack/drink/convenient mart more or less). It's about 8 feet by 5 feet in size.  Basically you can almost touch the counter when you walk in. The shelves are packed floor to ceiling. Literally. The items on the floor are on the floor, and the items on the top shelf are piled until they touch the ceiling. It is in this way that an 8x5 foot store can offer nearly everything that a Walmart does! Then, get invited behind the counter where there is another room, now like a dining room, plastered with images of Jesus and all the Popes there ever were and you sit at a table for 10 even though you, so far, are the only customers. A little grandma tells you what she is cooking back in her kitchen but she can tell by the look on your face, you might not be convinced. So then takes you back into her kitchen so you yourself may have a look. It looks great so you eat there! We had a delicious hearty portion of “chicken in yellow” (in yellow sauce I guess?) and it was a delightful chicken stew type dish with rice and potatoes and veggies and chicken and tortillas and guacamole. By the end of our meal, other customers were starting to trickle in. Now this is a Guatemalan experience! And one we very much enjoyed. 

Stay tuned for our next stop: Lake Atitlan!  I'm so excited to visit the place I came nearly exactly 8 years ago that changed the course of my life forever.



Per usual, exercise patience and tolerance and ignorance and ignore my spelling, grammatical errors, and modifications of correct punctuation. 

18 May 2014

3 weddings and thankfully, no funeral

Part of the reason that I have been absent from my regular-ish blogging was because I was off doing one of the best things ever: getting married!  If you've been to weddings you know how wonderful, fun, and full of  love they can be.  The best wedding though, is truly your own.  That's right.  Mine was the best!  And I guess it was so good that it had to have 3 parts: our part, the government's part, and my family's part.  We didn't plan for the 3 parts, but in the end, that's just how it worked out.  And it worked out!

Brandt and I arrived in Puerto Vallarta a week before our wedding.  I thought this would be a time of relaxation and amounting excitement.  It was one part that and 3 parts mild to moderate stress, anxiety, frustration, and anticipation.  I guess I wouldn't really be a bride if I didn't experience some of those things.  A relentless DIYer, I couldn't help myself from purposefully leaving some items off of our wedding planner's list.  I thought it would be "fun" to shop around for our own wedding cake and make personalized gift bags for our guests and also, prudent to do some of our own shopping for food and drinks to save on costs.  In hindsight it was fun and we did save money, but at the time it made me less of an adorable and patient fiancee and more of a bridezilla.  But how else can you get a tasty, hilariously decorated, authentic tres leches cake for 30 people for less than $30?  And what other situation would result in you busing to Costco (that's the green and white public bus, folks), purchasing 10 kilos of beach towels, 2.5 lbs of shredded pork, and a lifetime supply of tortillas and then carrying it all in your arms to the bus and then 10 blocks further past the last stop??  People probably thought we were so weird.  We were.

After meeting with our wedding planner (thank god, they really do exist! Wiring money to complete strangers isn't always a scam after all!) I did feel a bit more relaxed.  Also, friends of mine, Bob & Virginia, very graciously gifted us a week at their condo in downtown PV!  A place to call home with a king-size bed, hot shower, pool, kitchen, balcony, just steps from the ocean was a wonderful way to enjoy our last days "in sin."

As if that wasn't luxurious enough, my dearest friends, Erin & Jesse, gave us the pinnacle of wedding gifts (well pre-wedding gift): a 3 hour treatment at a luxury of-the-earth-type day spa in the PV hills.  I'm in heaven!  It started with what might have been my favorite part: a wine body wrap.  Total body exfoliation, oatmeal scrub, wine scrub, rubbin' it in all good, then they wrap you up like a burrito.  When you shower off, the view through the semi-open terracotta wall is a sweeping view of the entire city.  This sensory-stimulating wrap was followed by an hour of total body massage and then a facial.  I was SO happy!  The fun didn't stop there either!  We enjoyed a lovely buzz after sharing a bottle of red (tinto, rather) and a delicious 3-course late lunch.  Still, look how happy I was!



Really all I want to say about the wedding is that for us, it was completely perfect (you can see for yourself below).  Twenty of our closest family and friends joined us for 4 days in a private villa (i.e. mansion) and it was spectacular.  If you are planning a wedding, plan the wedding of your dreams.  Not of your friends or your parents or your mother-in-law.  Just yours.  If you do, it will be truly magically.  I guess you may say our beach wedding in Puerto Vallarta was the first of the "3 weddings," but in our hearts, this was our wedding.  Our one and only, and the day that will be special to us for many years to come!  03 May 2014









After our time in PV we actually flew back to the States for a week of continued wedding madness!   We promised we weren't first cousins and coughed up $48 to the state of Illinois for wedding part 2.  After a 10 minute ceremony with county-appointed Judge Yoder, we were married in the eyes of the government.  The best part? My favorite meal at the Grand Cafe afterwards to celebrate!



Part 3 was a splendid and well-attended day-long reception and party at my aunt's property in Lincoln, IL.  Extended family and friends joined from near and far to celebrate our marriage.  Dad roasted a hog, mom worked for months not neglecting even the smallest of details, family and friends helped with the set-up, another aunt was part of the live music entertainment, and we couldn't have asked for a better spring day.
In truth, we were a bit wedding-ed out after it all, but are grateful to have had so much fun celebrating and have wonderful memories (and photos) to prove it.




I also couldn't be more excited to spend the first year (or more??) of our marriage traveling the world.  Talk about one heck of a honeymoon!

Please excuse any typos and grammatical errors.  I am writing in a highly euphoric post-wedding state...

16 May 2014

Lessons Learned

Dear blogging followers, I issue you an apology for, again, being gone so long.  You can cut me slack or not, but I was off having the wedding of my dreams and can't nobody hold me down!  I'm happy like a room without a roof!  And I want to know what love is, I want you to show it.  And also, I haven't had a great night's sleep in 2 weeks, so sorry too for the silliness.

I can't actually even remember what my last blog was about...Ok, I think it was about Copan.  Since then we traveled into the United States, into Mexico, back to the United States, and finally to Guatemala.  I will definitely post on some of those travels and the events that transpired during the 20 day whirlwind I've experienced soon, but until then, I am leaving you with lessons we've learned along the way (so far).

Perhaps I mentioned before, sorrily we have a tendency for learning lessons we already knew again, the hard way.  It's annoying when someone else tells you, "I told you so" and it's even more annoying when you tell yourself.  We just should have known...

So here we go.

Lessons You Already Knew but Learned Again the Hard Way Anyway

1. During holiday seasons (i.e. Semana Santa) buy your tickets in advance.  There was a reason multiple people asked you if you already purchased your ticket.  Why did you think you knew better than everyone else?  Hopefully 2.5 hours waiting for a boat and arriving short of your destination helped you learn to listen to others.

2. When negotiating cab fare (or any other fare) specify if that is the total cost or per person cost. Maybe after half a dozen cab rides where you pay double what you thought you negotiated you will find yourself wiser.

3. If you are talking about San Pedro Sula, then say, "San Pedro Sula."  You can even say "San Pedro" but you can't say "Sula."  Well you can, but then you can also end up in a different town altogether.  Quit being so lazy.  Or cool.  You don't know the slang yet so just say the entire name of where you are going so you can get there.

4. If you take the last bus of the day, make sure it isn't broken.  So funny (not at all funny) that you will actually have the conversation with your husband, "There are 3 buses, 5am, 6am, and 7am.  Probably it would be best to take the 6am 'just in case' and just get there a bit early in case anything happens.  After all, this is the only one day where we have to get where we are going on time.  What do you think?"  Then your husband agrees that you are probably right (such a good hubby).  Still, you decide to take the 7am bus so you can "sleep in."  You completely dismiss all of the common sense you just expressed and ignore the fact that every morning you wake up at 5:30am anyway.  If you would have just done what you know you should have, you wouldn't have anxiety when you show up at the bus to find the ticket-taker (who is also the mechanic) lying under the bus knocking things around with a big wrench.  The driver tells you the bus won't start but that maybe the mechanic knows how to fix it.  After 20 minute it seems as though the bus might start !  And the way to find out?  Let the bus start rolling down the hill and pop the clutch.  With a bus.  A school bus.  But presto chango, the bus starts!  Only to now observe that as the bus is rolling towards a bridge, the mechanic and another man are throwing blocks and large rocks under the back wheel of the bus to get it to stop.  They aren't very good at it and keep missing which seems to cause more anxiety for everyone as the bus is not allowed to cross the bridge and is making no progress towards breaking.  Eventually the rocks and blocks land in front of the back tires and the bus comes to a halt.  Because this is the ONE day you HAVE to get where you are going, you get on the bus that might not have breaks and say to yourself, "well if we would have showed up just now, we wouldn't even know that there had been any problems."  As they say, ignorance is bliss.

5. Copan and Copan Ruinas are not necessarily the same place.  This seems oddly similar to #3.  Imagine that you buy a ticket to New York expecting your train to take you all the way to Grand Central Station and instead it drops you off just across the Pennsylvania state line.  Hopefully there is a nice Amish family to take you in because that was the last train today.

6. When you are a visitor in a new country, do not think that you know the bus schedule better than all the locals you talk to.  You might think we couldn't possibly be this stupid or ignorant, but we were.  Sometimes you just have to be reminded that you can not will things into existence.  Have you read that book, The Secret, or something like that?  It's some load of crap all about the power of attraction and how if you just "put it out there" then things will be.  It sites examples of people driving around San Francisco and Manhattan and just thinking "there should be a parking spot right in front of where I am going" and because you think that and "put it out there" it happens.  How can anyone believe this??!  What whackadoodles!  Well on this day we were those whacckadoodles.  When we were told the only return bus is at 4:30pm, we decided this just couldn't be.  It didn't make sense to us that there wouldn't be many passing buses all day long.  After all, there were many buses heading out of Copan, there had to be just as many returning, right?  No. Actually there doesn't.  After waiting "just 30 more minutes" ten times (literally 10 times) with no food and little water on the side of the road because "of course a bus will come any minute", we ended up getting on the one 4:30 bus we had been told about, at 5pm.  This was a long day.

7. When passing through customs, get rid of your fruit first.  Or don't claim it or do something that resembles common sense!  But do not keep the uneaten apple and declare it on your customs form.  Remember how you can't even bring baby carrots back to California from Hawaii?  Yes, you remember.  Then why in the world would you think you can take an apple from Honduras into the United States and then onward to Mexico?  You cannot do that.  You can eat the apple first.  You can throw the apple out.  Or your can not declare it and play dumb if you get caught.  But you cannot keep your declared apple.  If you do you will get a big X at the customs kiosk.  Then you will go back to the end of the line.  The long line.  The long line of all people who drew an X.  So probably, a long line of idiots who don't know how to travel.  Yep, now that's you.  How embarrassing.  So after you wait in line for an extra 45 min you get that customs official who really needed someone to talk to.  He said "Well if I just had one piece of advice for people coming into the country, it would be NEVER have fruits or vegetables with you, never.  I mean really, you can never bring those in, to any country really.  You gotta eat em or throw em out.  And if you don't declare them and you get caught, that's a $300 fine right there, and then you get an X every time you come in the country for the rest of your life and they strip search you too.  Every time.  You guys did the right thing here."  Then he said that, all of that, 3 more times.  Just kept repeating it.  Then he didn't even take our apple.  We still had the apple!  We had to go to another line and wait some more.  After that line we put all our stuff through a scanner and they didn't even see our apple.  So we said, "we just need to get rid of our apple."  The next guy takes our apple, gives it a good twice-over, and checks the sticker: Made in the USA.  The apple we bought in Honduras and were bringing back into the USA was made in the USA and thanks to that sticker, we got to keep our apple.  Are you kidding me?!  Because of the USA sticker we get to keep it?!  After all of that.  You better believe we ate that apple and learned our lesson with every last bite.



8. Spirit Airline IS the worst airline.  You knew this.  Your friends knew this.  Anyone who ever knew anyone that flew Spirit even once knew it, but it wasn't enough.  You forgot that you already knew that you get what you pay for.  And when you pay a low price for something that you expect will be crappy, it probably will be crappy.  Spirit Airline is crappy and have terrible customer service.  There is a reason their employees don't wear name tags; this way you can't say who they are when you call to complain.  This time we were harassed at 4:30am by the crabby woman, who clearly hates her life, issuing us boarding passes.  Actually she wouldn't issue us boarding passes because we did not have a return flight.  Yeah lady, we are on a trip around the world, we don't have a return flight.  She said she cannot issue us a ticket without proof of a return ticket.  Are you fricking kidding me?  First of all, this plane is taking me to Fort Lauderdale, Florida.  Can I at least get there and take my chances with another Spirit employee?  Maybe they have had their morning coffee by then.  Fortunately for us, I write down our travel info in a little pocketbook I have and had the flight info and confirmation number of a flight we have from Guatemala to Nicaragua in a month.  She looked at it and said "Anyone could write down information like that.  I need proof."  Seriously?!  Because you can print off electronic tickets a month in advance?  NO!  You can't!  And you know that because you work for an airline.  She says we can pull it up on our phones.  NO!  We can't!  Are you listening to a word we are saying??  We are traveling AROUND THE WORLD.  We do not have a cell phone.  She can tell we are pissed and talks to her boss.  She comes back no better than when she left.  She cannot issue us a boarding pass without proof.  I could go on forever about how senseless this is.  People book one way tickets ALL THE TIME and then returns or onward tickets at a later time.  Even if Guatemala wants to make sure I don't stay there until I die, they can harass me when I arrive, not you trying to keep me grounded in O'Hare.  Ultimately we have to get our laptop out, log on to the airport internet, and show her an email with the same information I showed her before.  Reluctantly I think, she issues us tickets.  We do not thank her.  On purpose we do not thank you because we did not find your customer service or personality worthy of a thanks.  She yells "You're welcome" in a not-so-nice tone as we walk away.  Never again, Spirit.  Never again.